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Flowering Succulents - Echeverias

My leafy succulents have flowered well this year. They spent a lot of time outside...

9 comments

hywel

21 Nov, 2017
Hywel

Amazing Acacia

There are two sorts of Thorns in this photo. Our Ranger/guide told us many interesting...

10 comments

siris

20 Nov, 2017
Siris

Mid November garden.

Well, we can't really grumble about the weather so far. We've only had a couple of...

8 comments

homebird

19 Nov, 2017
Homebird

GROWS ON YOU members and friends reunion June 4th 2018.

To prevent any criticism I have decided to take responsibility for planning this...

4 comments

dianebulley

19 Nov, 2017
Dianebulley

Freesias and an orchid

Oh my lounge smells so fantastic at the moment with the scent of freesias, one of...

8 comments

pamelaanne

15 Nov, 2017
Pamelaanne

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Members asking questions

Latest comments...

 

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the "native soil" may have been compacted by heavy machinery during the construction of my house 18 years ago. To be honest, I don't know if it is truly native soil. It could have been transported here to provide a firm foundation for the house. I will have to ask the builder to see if he remembers.

Just a couple more questions:

At the moment there is about 80 cm of the "decomposed granite soil" on top of the compacted soil below. How much of the compacted soil would need to be loosened up to support a large olive tree? Digging up 30 cm of compacted soil would give a total depth of about 110 cm. Would that be enough, or would it need to be deeper?

If I decide not to dig up the olive tree, is there any chance the roots could grow into the compacted soil and the tree thrive in the future? I don't think using a breaker bar is an option due to the hardness of the compacted soil and the possibility of damaging the roots, but I'm caught in two minds about digging up the tree.

Any work would be done in the Spring so I have a while to think about it yet.

 

It was in the upper 90's throughout most of San Diego County today! Truly HOT! It's still 77 degrees here at 11:00 p.m. That's truly amazing, also! Tomorrow, Thanksgiving Day it's going to be a few degrees cooler, maybe. lol!

 

Just to be safe, I would make clear plastic tents to put over them, large enough to give 15 cm of clearance between the plastic and the foliage. Without the tents, a lot depends on the variety of chili: some, like Jalapeno or Serrano peppers will have few problems, while Habaneros or "Ghost Peppers" may have problems with the chill alone, without freezing.

 

An annual, Pal? Most bulbs are perennials.
Can you describe the flowers more closely, such as bell shaped or star shaped? Is it a long cluster or a short, round cluster? Does a crushed leaf have an odor, especially oniony or garlicky? Are the leaves pointed or rounded at the tips? Or, can you post a picture in your question?

 

Eirlys, I have wondered about that on Supervet too & where would you draw the line - a decision I hope I never have to make.

 

What is the nature of the native soil, that it is so hard?
If it is clay, Dig it out at least 30 cm deep, break it up, and mix it 1 part clean sand, 2 parts compost, and 4 parts native soil. Before you fill in the area put a layer of conditioned soil about 2 cm deep in the bottom, and scratch that in with a cultivator, to create a transition layer. Any sudden change of soil texture will stop drainage. Gypsum, if the soil is alkaline to neutral, or limestone, if it is acid, will also help soften and open clay soils, over time.
If it is compacted sand, break up the compacted layer, and cover it with a 5-8 cm layer of compost. It may take a few years of twice yearly applications of compost to truly transform the soil. Breaking the compacted layer should restore drainage. If that doesn't happen you will need to dig deeper to find out what the true problem is.

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