Xela's Calendar

Divide and re-plant overcrowded colonies in spring.

In early spring apply a balanced slow-release fertiliser around the base of the plant and mulch with well-rotted compost or manure.

Some staking may be needed to support the flowering stems.

After flowering remove faded flowerheads and apply a slow-release fertiliser around the plant. Lift and divide large clumps in early spring.

Divide clumps that are no longer free flowering.
Replant small clumps in soil enriched with compost and give a sprinkling of general fertilizer.

A handful of Sulphate of potash sprinkled around the plant in spring will encourage better flowering.

Store dry and plant April - May, either in deep pots or in good soil in the sun, 3" apart and 5" deep. A 12" pot will need about 7-10 bulbs.

remove the old shoots that die back after flowering, or cut out all the flowered branches as they fade, leaving room for the elegant new wands that will bear next year's flowers. You can be quite brutal; whether you cut it as low as the new shoots, or right down to the ground, it doesn't seem to mind.

To train chose three to five of the strongest shoots, tying them in to horizontal wires.
In spring remove dead, misplaced or overcrowded stems

Protect the young shoots from slug-damage using beer traps or environmentally-friendly slug pellets

Select a position in full sun and ideally plant out in spring so the plant can establish before the onset of winter. It does best in poor soil as overly rich soil can encourage leaves at the expense of flowers. Dead-head old flowers as they fade to promote further flushes during the summer. Some discreet staking with bamboo canes may be necessary in windy gardens. Cut the entire plant to the ground in late autumn. Plants are not usually long lived but can be increased by division in spring, replanting pieces into a new position.

Start next batch Comfrey+Nettle Feed

3 parts comfrey + 1 part nettles
in standard bucket of water
(tear leaves to roughly size of own palm)
put lid on to contain smell (strong)
leave for 1 week stirring occasionally

Use:
dilute 50/50 before using to feed.
Effects can be seen within fortnight.

For soils with a pH greater than 6.5, the best advice is to restrict your choice to Erica carnea, Erica x darleyensis, Erica erigena, Erica manipuliflora, Erica vagans and any of the tree heaths with the exception of Erica arborea.
Plant heathers deeply with the lower foliage resting on the soil surface.

Transfer one of pulmonaria plants to garage bed

Time to prune May - Aug
Care must be taken when pruning as E. carnea buds as early as July. It is safer to prune immediately after the flowers have faded. Prune around the edges and very lightly over the top of the plant.

Time to take cuttings May - June

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, mix 1 tablespoon of cornstarch and 1 cup of cold water. Stir until the mixture boils. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature.

2. Cut newspapers into strips 1 inch wide. Use ruler and pencil to mark the proper spacing for seeds.

3. Place the cornstarch mixture in a sandwich bag. Cut off a tiny corner of the bag, and squeeze a dot of the mixture onto each mark on the paper. Place a seed on each dot, and allow the seed tapes to dry.

4. Write the name of the seeds on the end of each seed tape, roll them up, and store in a cool dry place.

5. At the proper planting unroll the seed tape and place it in a furrow. Cover with soil and water well.

Apply a generous 5cm - 7cm (2in - 3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant.

Dead head faded flowers regularly to ensure repeat flowering. .

Dead head faded flowers regularly to ensure repeat flowering. .

regularly remove dead flower heads ..... cut eh flower off just above a leaf with a downward sloping cut away from the leaf bud.

Gladioli need a regular supply of water when the buds begin to appear.

Cuttings should be taken in June from stems grown that year (not woody stems grown the previous season), but avoid the very soft part of the stem at the top end.

EASY FROM MODERATELY EASY
CUTTINGS FROM CUTTINGS

Alpinas Macropetalas
Montanas Viticellas
Clematis Tangutica Large-flowered hybrids
Clematis tibetana
'Bill MacKenzie'

Clematis armandii
Texensis

The cuttings described below are often referred to as 'internodal' cuttings (taken between two leaf joints).

STEP 1
Cut the main stem about 5cm (2in) below a leaf joint - use a clean, sharp knife to avoid crushing the stem when cutting.

STEP 2
Cut the main stem as near as possible just above the leaf joint. See diagram to the left to illustrate the cutting.
STEP 3
Cut away the leaves and stalk from one side of the stem and trim off any excess leaves from the other side so that only two leaves remain.

This trimming process will reduce loss of water through the leaves of the cutting.

Having created the clematis cutting, dip the base of the cutting into hormone rooting powder (to help the cutting produce roots), and insert it into a small pot filled with potting compost. Don't force the cutting into the compost - make a small hole first, place the cutting in the hole and gently firm the compost round the stem.

The cutting should be placed in the compost so that all of the main stem is covered. Only the very top of the stem and the leaf and stalk should be above the compost. Water well (preferably from the base) then label and date the cutting.

To avoid the cutting loosing too much water place it in a covered propagator, or cover the pot with a plastic bag. Place the covered cutting in a light protected place but not one exposed to direct sunlight.

Plants grown this way will be ready for planting out after a year (re-pot into larger pots as the roots fill the pot) and will flower after another year.

Time to take cuttings: April to August

Cut the dead flowers off just above a leaf with a downward sloping cut away from the leaf bud

Gladioli need a regular supply of water when the buds begin to appear.

Remove the lower flowers as they fade and trim the stems regularly.

Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded.

Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded.

Hebes are easily propagated from 3–4 in cuttings taken in summer from the current season’s growth. Cuttings are taken just below a leaf joint. The bottom two pairs of leaves are removed and the cuttings dipped into a rooting hormone, although this not essential. These are then inserted into a soil-based John Innes Compost.

Young plants should be potted up in the spring. Remove the growing tip to induce a more bushy plant. Plants normally flower in the first year.

Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded.

Harvest June & July

Cut back the stalks after the flowers have faded.

Spring pruning concentrates on cutting back outward growing shoots and shortening other growth. This will remove some of the flowering wood, but this can be limited by waiting until the flower buds appear.

Once apple trees are established it's best to summer prune the spur-fruiting varieties. This will encourage the development of short flowering shoots or 'spurs' that go on to bear clusters of fruit. Summer pruning is ideal for keeping the trees in shape and involves pruning the soft, current season's growth before it has chance to become woody.

*
Do it:

late-June - mid-August
*
Takes just:

50 minutes for medium-sized tree

How to do it

1.

Cutting back main shoot by halfCut back the leading shoots of each branch by half their length to encourage the production of side shoots. Only prune the current season's growth in this way, cutting to just above a leaf.
2.

Cutting back side growth Cut back all remaining side shoots to two or three leaves from the base of the current season's leafy growth, cutting just above the bud.

Adam's Tips
Adam's Tip

"The soft stems and leaves that are cut off apple trees during summer pruning are perfect to add to the compost heap where they'll rot down quickly."

"Always prune to an outward-facing bud so that the centre of the bush or tree is kept open. This helps reduce problems with pests and diseases."

Stake with twiggy pea-sticks well before the plant starts to flower.

Cuttings of half-ripe wood 10 - 12 cm with a heel, July/August in a frame. Plant out in the following spring

After flowering, remove the flower stem but leave the foliage to continue growing into autumn as it feeds the bulb.

Division of runners, preferably done in July/August in order to allow the plants to become established for the following years crop.
They can also be moved in the following spring if required, though should not then be allowed to fruit in their first year.
The runners can be planted out direct into their permanent positions.

Remove the faded blooms regularly to prolong flowering.

Take cuttings July - Aug

Harvest July - Aug

will keep its satisfying density if clipped annually after flowering.

The seedlings should be pricked out when large enough (pricked-out seedlings have a better root system).

Once established cut back the flowered shoots immediately after flowering to within two or three buds of the permanent framework of the plant.

After four years, divide the congested clump from midsummer to early autumn, replanting good-sized sections in groups. Until established, water the new plants well and don?t let them dry out.

Prune immediately after the first flush of flowers cos it blooms on both old & new wood

Prune cutting back to fit the available space again in mid-summer if necessary.

Always wear gloves when working with Peruvian lilies since contact with the foliage may cause skin irritation. After flowering cut back the faded flower stems.

After flowering pinch back young plant to encourage a bushy habit. Lightly trim or cut back any stems that spoil the symmetry of the plant

Cut privet hedging

Take cuttings from non-flowering stem tips in late summer and over winter for planting out the following year.

Buy bulbs for forcing

Divide overcrowded clumps in late summer, and plant offsets elsewhere in the garden.

Trim specimens grown as hedges two or three times a year during the growing season, taking care not to cut into the old wood

Narcissus should be planted from August to November, the earlier the better, at a depth three times the height of the bulb in beds, borders and large containers. In lawns they are best planted slightly deeper, at a depth of 15cm (6in). If your soil is heavy and poorly drained, mix a handful of grit into the base of the planting hole. This will increase drainage, thus reducing the likelihood of fungal diseases.

To create a really good display in a container, plant bulbs at different depths to increase the number of bulbs that can be fitted into the space.

Planting associations: Narcissi look good planted in borders or in naturalised drifts at the base of deciduous trees. They look their best when planted in drifts of eight or more bulbs, which appears more natural. They also work well in containers with most other spring-flowering plants. Try them with tulips, crocuses , pansies, forget-me-nots, polyanthus or wallflowers. The smaller types of narcissus can look excellent in hanging baskets . Distribute them evenly throughout the basket as you position plants, such as polyanthus, heather, crocus or ivy.

Lift and divide overcrowded clumps.

During the growing season apply a balanced liquid fertiliser each month.

Plant cuttings in cold frame

Prune out thin, old shoots.

Begin by tying in any new shoots that are needed to extend the existing framework of branches, to fill in any gaps or to replace worn-out limbs.
Then shorten the current year's shoots to about 30cm (1ft). Removing shoots at this time of year will restrict the amount of growth, improve air circulation and allow in more sunlight to ripen the young stems. All of these factors help to improve flower-bud formation.

a piece of wandering root or take cuttings at the end of the summer and put them in a sandy trench outdoors. The stems are hollow, so cut immediately below a leaf node where there should be pith in the shoot. If you fail to find any solid stem, you can always seal the end carefully with hot candle wax. This works as long as you dip the shoot quickly and then wait for the wax to dry before putting the cutting in.

After flowering, remove the flower stem but leave the foliage to continue growing into autumn as it feeds the bulb.

Water regularly during dry spells and deadhead regularly to prolong flowering.

Harvest 'Discovery' apples

Harvest fruit

STEP 1
Take the cutting from this year's growth. Select a shoot where the tip is soft new growth, but the lower part is harder older growth. Using a sharp knife, take a cutting 15-20cm (6-8in) long. If possible, select a shoot which has no flowers or buds on it.
Remove any leaves from the lower part of the shoot and cut it immediately below a leaf joint. Cut off the soft new growth at the top of the shoot just above a leaf joint. The ideal cutting should now be about 5-10cm (2-4in long).

STEP 2
For each cutting, fill an 8cm (3in) pot with potting compost. Dip the base of the cutting in hormone rooting powder, make a small hole in the compost and insert the cutting into the hole to about a third of it's length. Firm the compost down around the cutting. Water well.

STEP 3
To prevent the cuttings loosing too much water. place the pots in a small propagator with the vents closed. Alternatively, cover each pot with a plastic bag kept off the cuttings by wire hoops inserted into the compost. Place the cuttings in a warm, draught free place which is always out of direct sunlight. A propagator is ideal or against the house wall.

STEP 4
The cuttings will have rooted in a month or so. At this stage, harden them off over a week or two to the normal weather. During the winter, the plants need the protection of a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. The plants can be planted in their final positions next spring.

recommended method for taking cuttings:

1.

Prepare a pot or seed tray by filling it with soil. I recommend you use a mixture of multi-purpose compost (peat) mixed with sand for additional drainage.
2.

Cut a section of non-flowering, fresh growth from the plant between two to three inches in length using a knife.
3.

Remove a few of the bottom leaves from the offcut, where the stem will be pushed under the soil.
4.

Carefully poke the cutting into the soil using a pointer if necessary to make a hole first.
5.

Make sure you keep the soil moist while the cuttings are rooting. It is perfectly ok to keep your pot or tray of cuttings outside of a greenhouse for them to root. For a quicker propagation, place the pot in either a greenhouse, cold frame, or in a heated propagator.
6.

Outside, cuttings will take about six months to root, depending on the weather conditions. Placing the cuttings in a slightly warmer area could speed this up. After adequate time has been allowed for rooting, remove the cuttings from the pot. Pot up any rooted cuttings into individual pots and throw away any unsuccessful ones.

Some varieties are easier to propagate than others; this varies depending on their shape, formation and climate requirements.

If you are a beginner, I would try propagating one of the following as they tend to be quite easy to get to root:

- H. 'Chocolate Blotch' (green foliage, orange flowers)

- H. 'Ben Ledi' (dark pink flowers)

- H. 'Rose Queen' (pale pink flowers)

- H. 'Ben Fhada' (rich yellow flowers)
- H. 'Wisley Pink' (pale pink flowers)

For the same reason, these are also the more common and widely available Helianthemums with many suppliers throughout the UK.

Prune in late-summer immediately after flowering, removing one in four of the older stems to ground level.

Take cuttings May - Aug

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Lift and divide large clumps in late-summer.

if you are clever you will time the last cut just as it stops growing (around the end of August) so that the hedge will have a clean, neat profile for the winter.

Worm casts may become a problem at this time of year. If the problem is bad, treat with derris -
This is a great month to scarify the lawn and follow it up with spiking to aerate the soil below the lawn.

Autumn is here so decrease the frequency of mowing and gradually increase the height of the cut.

or divide June to August

Clip in Autumn,
to make it more compact take out some of old wood .... research how much

Apply a mulch in autumn too.

Cuttings root and overwinter easily, or the plants can be potted up in autumn.

divide plants: September to November

In autumn remove and compost the faded, flower spikes and apply a deep, dry mulch around the crown of the plant.

Cut back in Autumn and mulch / divide if congested.

LAYERING
This method is guaranteed to reproduce plants exactly the same as the parent plant. Common clematis which can be grown by layering are:

EASY FROM MODERATELY EASY
CUTTINGS FROM CUTTINGS
Alpinas Macropetalas
Montanas Large-flowered hybrids
Clematis Tangutica Clematis campaniflora
Clematis tibetana Clematis florida

Clematis armandii
Texensis

Layering is one of the easiest methods of growing more of your clematis plants. First prepare the area where the stem will be in the ground by digging in as much well-rotted organic matter as possible (spent potting compost will be fine). A good time for layering is early autumn.

Then, make a small notch in the stem (near a leaf node) which will be under the soil (see diagram below). This will greatly help the stem grow roots from that point.

Dig out an area about 20cm (8in) deep by 60cm (2ft) and fill half of it with a mixture of the original soil and well-rotted organic matter. Gently bend the stem down into the soil and pin it down with two wire hooks to keep it in place. Cover the stem with with more mixed soil and compost.

Normally the layered stem will have produced a good root system by the next season's autumn. It then will be ready to be severed from the parent plant, dug up and placed in it's new position.

Avoid the temptation to cut back the flowerheads in autumn as they provide interest in the winter garden.

Remove unwanted stems and some of the old stems.

Harvest Early Sept to late October

Divide and replant congested colonies in September, applying a generous mulch of composted leaf mould around the base of the plant.

Trim after flowering.

Time to divide plants: September to November

Divide clumps in autumn

By far the easiest and most common method of propagating potentillas is by taking semi-ripe cuttings.

they can be propagated from cuttings taken from the current season's growth. The cuttings need to be two to three inches long with the bottom leaves removed and these can be placed around the side of a five inch pot in a peat/sharp grit mixture. After watering the cuttings in well the pots can then be placed in a sheltered spot in the garden or in a cold frame. The time to take the cuttings is September/October time and these are classed as semi-hardwood cuttings.

Check cuttings for root system

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Spray roses against greenfly and blackspot. etc.

Lift and divide large clumps in early autumn and replant with the crown just above the surface of the soil.

In autumn trim back lightly any branches that obscure the display of fruit.

Feed the lawn with an application of autumn lawn feed.

Re-seeding or re-turfing is best done early in the autumn - the ground is still warm from the summer but is also moist.

Brush up autumn leaves.

After flowering lightly trim back shoots that spoil the symmetry of the plant. After pruning apply a generous 5cm - 7cm mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant.

pot up in moist compost during long spells of cold weather. It requires greenhouse protection over winter in Britain

Over winter indoors

Divide congested plants in spring or autumn.

Bring indoors before the first frost

Bring indoors before first frost

During winter in colder regions, it is better to lift the corms after the first frost and store them in a dry, frost-free environment. In other regions, they can remain undisturbed in the soil with an adequate layer of mulch for winter protection.

Harvest 'Cox' apples

Cut back and compost the spent flower stems in autumn and apply a dry mulch around the crown of the plant to protect against frost damage.

Blackcurrant bushes need constant renewal to ensure heavy crops. Older branches will bear fruit, but quantity and quality decline with age. For this reason new bushes are planted deeply so that the plant produces vigorous young branches annually from below ground. These are then used to replace older ones cut out after harvest.

Each year remove about one third of the oldest stems - the bark is very dark to the point of being black - and any that are weak or very low. Always cut back to ground level or to a strong new shoot. You can combine pruning with picking the fruit, or wait until winter.

Protect from cold, drying winds.

Plant below chicken wire to deter rabbits digging them up.

easy to lift once the first frosts have browned the foliage and, kept dry, through the winter, survive many years.

.

To overwinter, lift in autumn before the first frosts, and dry them off. Dust with a fungicide and store in a frost-free place.

Trim lightly after flowering, cutting the older stems to the base and removing weak, spindly growth.

Always wear gloves when working with Peruvian lilies since contact with the foliage may cause skin irritation.
In autumn provide a dry mulch of bracken or bark chippings to protect young plants.

Cut back when foliage dies back in autumn to encourage new growth in spring.

Feeding Your Lawn Naturally

PHOSPHATE
Sprinkle a handful of bone meal per square meter (yard) over the lawn in autumn / fall. The rate of application is not too critical because bone meal will not burn the lawn and takes time to break down and release nutrients. This will provide your lawn with a good supply of phosphate throughout the year.

Cut back this season's growth to just beyond second or third bud from base.

Trim lightly after flowering, cutting the older stems to the base and removing weak, spindly growth.

In autumn cut back all dead flower stems to the ground.

Cut back old stems in late autumn with a pair of secateurs, as pulling the stems can damage the buds underground.

In late autumn, lift the corms and dry them off. Once dry, remove all soil and dead foliage. Store in a single layer in a frost-free shed or garage. Good ventilation reduces the risk of mildew.

Each corm will produce a number of smaller offsets. These take two years to reach flowering size and can be stored in the same way before being planted.

In most years a quick tidy up in late autumn, removing the old leaves is all the attention it needs.

Hungry bullfinches feed on the gooseberry buds in winter, so use netting to keep them at bay.

Winter pruning helps to form a balanced branch structure and keeps the centre of the bush open to make picking easier. Mildew disease is also reduced if air circulation is encouraged. Fruits form on old wood and around the base of last year’s growth. Therefore prune back the previous years growth to two buds. Prune out any shoots that are growing into the centre of the bush, and cut back leaders by one-third.

Single-stemmed cordons can be trained on canes or against a wall where they can reach 1.8m (6ft) tall.
Tie the leading shoot tip into the support as it grows. In winter, shorten the previous year's growth on the main tip back by a quarter to encourage new sideshoots. Shorten sideshoots pruned in summer to two or three buds.

1.Rose root stem showing die back
Remove dead shoots and the tips of stems showing signs of die back.
2.Crossing rose branches
Look for crossing and badly placed branches and cut them out to form a good shape.
3.Cutting rose stems
Cut the stems of hybrid tea roses to half their length. Cut just above a bud pointing in the direction you want the new growth.

Adam's Tip

"Avoid spreading disease by always making sure your secateurs are clean and sharp."

"Always try to prune when the rose is dormant - after autumn leaf fall and before the buds break in spring."

In frost-prone areas, protect in winter using a thick, dry mulch such as shredded bark.

Cuttings of mature wood of the current seasons growth. 20 cm long, November in a sheltered outdoor nursery bed[200].

In late autumn, lift the corms and dry them off. Once dry, remove all soil and dead foliage. Store in a single layer in a frost-free shed or garage. Good ventilation reduces the risk of mildew.

Each corm will produce a number of smaller offsets. These take two years to reach flowering size and can be stored in the same way before being planted.

Cuttings of mature wood in November. Layering.

Cuttings of mature wood of the current year's growth, preferably with a heel, November in a frame.

Fill fruit net with barley straw .
Attach cork(s) to neck of net before fastening off.

Decomposition of barley straw creates humic substances that will inhibit the growth of pond algae.
The cork will keep the straw near the surface of th pond where the majority of algal growth takes place and the oxygen levels are higher, therby increasing the effectiveness of the straw.

Volume of pond ( in gallons) = length x width x depth (in feet) x 6.25
Use one miniball for each 1000 gallons or part thereof

Once established prune in early winter to keep the plant within bounds, paying particular attention to stems that are encroaching on windows, guttering or roofs.

After flowering cut the flowered stems to the ground and apply a generous mulch of well-rotted garden compost or horse manure around the base of the plant.

After flowering lightly trim back shoots that spoil the symmetry of the plant. After pruning apply a generous 5cm - 7cm mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant.

(i) Buy bare rooted tree as early in December as possible.
(ii) Plant in half-barrel mounted on a trolley (for ease of moving inside & out) in any type of sand.
(iii) Water 1 - 2 litres daily.
(iv) Keep outside as long as possible ..... after Christmas keep in a sheltered spot in the garden for at least a month to aclimatise to being outside again.

Leave old one in too

Prune in mid-winter, cutting back to fit the available space,

Prune only to remove deadwood, crossing branches, or fast growing shoot that appear along the trunk or branches.

Plant corms 10-16cm (4-6in) deep in spring, on a bed of sharp sand to aid drainage from Jan - May. For a succession of flowers stagger the planting of the corms weekly.

Plant Jan - May

Remove unwanted stems.

Dispose of old pond straw bale

Remove dead branches.

Shorten the summer-pruned shoots to within 2.5-5cm (1-2in) of older wood or to two or three buds (http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0605/wisteria.asp).
It should be possible now to distinguish the plumper flower buds from the slimmer growth buds.

Long, whippy shoots that grew after the summer pruning (http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0605/wisteria.asp) should also be pruned. Cut these back to five or six buds from the main branch, making the cut just above a bud.

Remove damaged or crossing branches during the dormant season

Shorten the summer-pruned shoots to within 2.5-5cm (1-2in) of older wood or to two or three buds (http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0605/wisteria.asp).
It should be possible now to distinguish the plumper flower buds from the slimmer growth buds.

Long, whippy shoots that grew after the summer pruning (http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0605/wisteria.asp) should also be pruned. Cut these back to five or six buds from the main branch, making the cut just above a bud.

Mulch in late-winter with garden compost or well-rotted manure but avoid the immediate crown.

Shorten the side shoots to about 6",
tie in main growth to horizontal wires obliquely to increase the number of flowering twigs formed.

Apply top - dressing of granular rose food in late winter / early spring each year.

Lift & divide large clumps while in 'the green' ( every 3 years or so),
replant about two bulb widths apart in light shade.

Divide in winter or early spring.

Prune back to within 3 or 4 buds of the permanent framework in late winter.

Shorten the summer-pruned shoots to within 2.5-5cm (1-2in) of older wood or to two or three buds (http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0605/wisteria.asp).
It should be possible now to distinguish the plumper flower buds from the slimmer growth buds.

Long, whippy shoots that grew after the summer pruning (http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profiles0605/wisteria.asp) should also be pruned. Cut these back to five or six buds from the main branch, making the cut just above a bud.

Cut back the flowered shoots to within a few ( 3?)cm of the older branch. Also cut back some of the older branches to within a few cm of ground level in order to promote more basal growth.

Cut back stems to a pair of strong buds 15cm - 20cm (6in - 8in) above ground level before growth begins in early spring.

To grow for first year bloom, sow seeds 10 weeks prior to the last frost. Do not cover the seeds, since they require light to germinate. Germination time is 6 to 12 days at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. To grow as a biennial, sow seeds outdoors in July or August. The small plants will bloom late the next spring.

Spring pruning concentrates on cutting back outward growing shoots and shortening other growth. This will remove some of the flowering wood, but this can be limited by waiting until the flower buds appear.

Prune moderatley in early spring, cutting all the previous year's stems back about half way.

All gladioli like rich, free-draining soil in a sunny, sheltered position, such as the foot of a south-facing wall or in a walled gravel garden. Plant in clumps of five to seven corms, 10cm (4in) deep and 10cm (4in) apart, during March and April. Mark the planting position with a small cane that can be replaced with a stake as required. Lighten heavy clay soils with well-rotted manure or compost. Plant each corm on a layer of sand to improve drainage.

Take root cuttings in spring (march / april / may)

The roots are brittle so do not divide clumps.
It's a good idea to enrich the soil with plenty of leaf mould before planting

Plant Homeria corms in the spring or fall approximately 1-2 inches deep. Since Homerias have very small corms, do not plant the corms too deeply or too far apart. In fact, a good way to plant them is by massing them in small groups.

The corms that are planted in the spring will bloom later in the summer, while corms planted in the fall will flower in the spring.

start off by pressing tubers hollow side uppermost into box of damp peat(?) .
Keep at 60-70F.

Take cuttings: March to May

. Choice of Plants
The first hurdle is to decide if you want a colour theme, although multi coloured baskets tend to be most colourful, with a good contrast between splashes of blues against yellows and reds, or whites in amongst purples and oranges standing out well. Once you have decided on your colours, it is very important to understand the growing habits of the different plants, we are assuming you are planting either an easi-plant basket, or an ordinary basket with either moss or liner, firstly you need truly hanging plants for the very base of the basket, these can include surfinia petunias, verbena, nepeta, covolvulus and one very striking yellow plant to use is lysimachia nummularia aurea goldilocks - better known as creeping jenny, or for lovely silver foliage try the recent introduction Dichondra Silver Falls. Above these lower plants, you need a mix of two different growth habits, the plants that grow out horizontally and produce the width of the basket, here you can include such plants as scaevola, bidens - although you would do well to get the shorter varieties, any of the helichrysiums for foliage colour or trailing ivy leaved geraniums - the continental varieties are great for this as they produce a true mass of flowers - be warned, don't overdo these "horizontal growers", 2 or3 at the most, otherwise they can look a mess! In amongs these plants you need the shorter and more compact basket plants such as million bells, diascia, bacopa, the lovely orange anagalis sunrise and then for a splash of vibrant colour some busy lizzie will perform well here. Finally we get to plants for the top of the basket, and some of the best plants to use are trailing fiberouse rooted begonias, or their upright cousins - the Non Stop begonias, alternatively upright or semi trailing fuchsia can make a good centerpiece. The remainder of the top is a good place to plant either more busy lizzy, or trailing lobelia around the edge.

When narcissi flower-heads have faded, it is best to remove them. Otherwise the plant will divert energy from building up the bulb, which is necessary for next year's display, and put it into seed production. This job takes a little time if you have a large number of bulbs, but you will be rewarded by your efforts.

Each year in late-winter or early spring wearing stout gardening gloves remove the previous year's stems by cutting and combing.

Lift and divide congested colonies in spring.

Top dress in spring

Top dress with general fertilizer in Spring

take cuttings: March to May

Top dress with general fertilizer in Spring

Lift and divide old plants if flowering is beginning to be diminished. This can be done in the spring just as growth begins. Lift the entire clump and use a spade or sharp knife to split sections off the main plant. Replant straight away into compost-enriched soil.

Apply a generous 5cm - 7cm (2in - 3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring. Avoid moving the plant since it resents disturbance. Where necessary lift and divide congested colonies in early spring.

Apply a generous 5cm - 7cm (2in - 3in) mulch of well-rotted compost or manure around the base of the plant in spring.

A light fertilising in March will help enormously.

Keep the base of the tree weed free, fertilise at the beginning of each year and water regularly during hot, dry spells.

Light scattering of general fertiliser round plants in spring will keep them happy all summer.

When narcissi flower-heads have faded, it is best to remove them. Otherwise the plant will divert energy from building up the bulb, which is necessary for next year's display, and put it into seed production. This job takes a little time if you have a large number of bulbs, but you will be rewarded by your efforts.

Apply a 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant in early spring.

Seed - sow spring in a greenhouse. Only just cover the seed and do not allow the pot to dry out. When they are large enough to handle, prick the seedlings out into individual pots and plant them out in early summer, after the last expected frosts. If you have sufficient seed it can be sown outdoors in situ during the spring. Plants usually self-sow freely and so, once you have the plant, further sowing is usually unnecessary

Time to prune: March to April

divide plants: March to April

Remove any weak branches and the dead flower-heads.

Keep well-watered during the growing season, applying a balanced liquid fertiliser each month from spring until the plant flowers.

They may be propagated from offsets or by dividing the rootstock in early spring or autumn.

Pruning consists of removing weak and crossing shoots then thinning down the plant to a structure of evenly spaced one and two year old stems.
See the diagram
http://www.gardenaction.co.uk/plantfinder/clematis_19.asp

To propagate, divide as soon as growth begins in spring.

Old or neglected plants can be pruned back to the ground in spring and new fresh shoots will appear as a result.

Remove dead wood

Lift and divide large colonies in spring.

Plants can be divided in early spring, just as growth is about to start.

Mid month, rake up all the rubbish on the surface of the lawn. Make the first cut of the season when the weather conditions are dry. The first of the new season should just 'top' the grass - cutting off too much of the grass could damage it this early in the season.

Worm casts may become a problem at this time of year. If the problem is bad, treat with derris - click here to jump to the 'worm treatment' section for more details.

Time to divide plants: April to May

take cuttings in Spring (5cm or 2in long) to replace the plant the next year.

Lift and divide large colonies in spring Needs minimal pruning. Remove misplaced or frost damaged branches in late-spring.

(Do not prune for first 3 years)
Remove 1 stem in 3 , cutting back to base. Cut out oldest & weakest stems first.

Trim hedges.

In spring after all risk of severe frosts has passed cut back hard to within 30cm (12in) of ground level.
To prevent it from becoming straggly it's important to prune the previous year's flowered stems hard each spring, to within 5cm of old wood.
After pruning apply a generous 5cm - 7cm mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant.

Perennials can be propagated by taking basal cuttings or dividing in spring.

Apply a generous 5cm - 7cm (2in - 3in) mulch of well-rotted organic matter around the crown of the plant in spring.

Lift and divide congested colonies in autumn or spring.

Easily increased by way of cuttings taken in the spring and summer months. Plants are best replaced regularly, every three years or so, as they have a tendency to become woody and leggy.

Easily increased by way of cuttings taken in the spring and summer months. Plants are best replaced regularly, every three years or so, as they have a tendency to become woody and leggy.

Easily increased by way of cuttings taken in the spring and summer months. Plants are best replaced regularly, every three years or so, as they have a tendency to become woody and leggy.

Easily increased by way of cuttings taken in the spring and summer months. Plants are best replaced regularly, every three years or so, as they have a tendency to become woody and leggy.

Easily increased by way of cuttings taken in the spring and summer months. Plants are best replaced regularly, every three years or so, as they have a tendency to become woody and leggy.

Easily increased by way of cuttings taken in the spring and summer months. Plants are best replaced regularly, every three years or so, as they have a tendency to become woody and leggy.

Easily increased by way of cuttings taken in the spring and summer months. Plants are best replaced regularly, every three years or so, as they have a tendency to become woody and leggy.

Divide plants April to June

Division in spring. Since the plants are quite short-lived, this method is not really very serviceable .

Lift and divide large colonies in spring.

Divide clumps in autumn or spring

Cut out dead /diseased wood.

Potentillas can also be propagated in spring by digging up the root ball and dividing it with a knife or spade. This sounds a bit drastic, but it works. This division can be done every four years or so.

Prune back unwanted stems in spring to avoid a tangle of shoots, otherwise allow it to grow into a large tree or into a native hedgerow and it can be left un-pruned.

Carefully trim back in April, taking care not to cut into old wood.

Carefully trim back in April, taking care not to cut into old wood.

Transplant into potting compost

Carefully trim back in April, taking care not to cut into old wood.

Fungal diseases may occur in cool, wet springs so prune out any affected parts and spray the remaining sections with fungicide.

Remove dead and straggly shoots.

Carefully trim back in April, taking care not to cut into old wood.

Roots should be divided in April using plants three or four years old. Dig up the plant, clear away as much soil as possible from the roots and gently tear the the plant into three or four pieces. The pieces (each should have a portion of root and foliage) can then simply be planted in the ground and left to grow. They should be ready for moderate harvesting in early July time.

Divide in spring or autumn. Larger divisions can be planted out direct into their permanent positions. We have found it best to pot up the smaller divisions and grow them on in a lightly shaded position in a cold frame, planting them out once they are well established in the summer.

Tip prune young plants in mid to late-spring to encourage bushy growth and apply a generous 5cm - 7cm (2in - 3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant. Remove any plain green-leaved shoots as soon as they appear, cutting them back to the origin.

See Majeekahead's blog for advice

In mid or late-spring lightly cut back any shoots that spoil the symmetry of the plant.

After pruning apply a generous 5cm - 7cm (2in - 3in) mulch of well- rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant.

Feed the lawn with an application of spring lawn feed. The best feeds contain some long-lasting nitrogen fertiliser.

Mid spring is the best time for applying a weed killer or weed and feed. If moss is a problem, use a good brand of lawn sand and rake up the dead moss a fortnight later.

rake up the dead moss ( fortnight after treatment)

Time to take cuttings: May to July

Lift and divide large clumps every three to five years after flowering or in autumn. Cut back plants affected by mildew to the ground, water and feed - the plant will regenerate and produce new leaves later in the year.

Lift and divide large clumps every three to five years after flowering or in autumn. Cut back plants affected by mildew to the ground, water and feed - the plant will regenerate and produce new leaves later in the year.

Divide large clumps after the plant has flowered, preferably during a wet spell.

Not essential, but trim back dead or over-long branches if required.

Needs minimal pruning. Remove misplaced or frost damaged branches in late-spring.

After flowering prune side-shoots to five or six leaves and remove crossing or ill-placed stems. Once established remove excess growth in late-spring or summer and cut back all side-shoots to two or three leaves.

Start thinning gooseberries during late May or early June removing about half the crop. The fruits from this first harvest can be used for cooking. This will give a longer cropping season and leaves others more room to grow to a larger size.

In late-spring or early summer after flowering lightly cut back any branches that spoil the symmetry of the plant

In late-spring or early summer after flowering lightly cut back any branches that spoil the symmetry of the plant

Apply a generous 5cm - 7cm (2in - 3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant.

Apply a generous 5cm - 7cm (2in - 3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant.

Remove any unwanted growth in late spring

Only prune if it has outgrown its growing space. Prune immediately after flowering, reducing gradually over two or three years (if it is cut back too hard there is a danger of losing the entire plant).

Divide large clumps after the plant has flowered, preferably during a wet spell.

Prune in late-spring after flowering removing one in three stems to ground level. Cut back the remaining flowered stems to different levels to encourage flowering shoots at different heights. Apply a 5cm - 7cm (2in - 3in) mulch around the base of the plant.

Label pink & white clumps

Cut back stems which have flowered [May - June/July]

Start thinning gooseberries during late May or early June removing about half the crop. The fruits from this first harvest can be used for cooking. This will give a longer cropping season and leaves others more room to grow to a larger size.

After the blooms have faded, the remaining leaves can look unsightly as they yellow. It is important to resist the temptation of removing this foliage early. It contains valuable nutrients that will be used for next year's crop of flowers. Leave the leaves for at least six weeks after flowering - longer if possible - before removing them.

Time to divide plants: June to July

Time to divide plants: June to August

The gorgeously coloured De Caen anemones, and their close cousins the double St Brigid varieties, are well-known cut-flowers, sometimes called Florist Anemones and available almost all the year round. Gardeners can achieve a similar long season of colour by planting the claw-shaped tubers at various seasons - in April for June and July, in June for September, and in September in mild areas or under cloches for late winter and early spring blooms. After flowering, the tubers can be lifted and dried, or they may be left in permanently, when they will flower annually in spring.

Prune established plants in spring immediately after flowering, removing 25-30cm (10-12in) of the flowered stems. This encourages a second flush of flowers in late-summer and autumn. At the same time remove any frost-damaged stems to the base.

Time to divide plants: June to August

Trim specimens grown as hedges two or three times a year during the growing season, taking care not to cut into the old wood

The seeds should be sown from June to July at a temperature of 20°C (68°F).

Keep in check by pruning.

Deadhead after flowering.

Start thinning gooseberries during late May or early June removing about half the crop. The fruits from this first harvest can be used for cooking. This will give a longer cropping season and leaves others more room to grow to a larger size. The SECOND HARVEST be done a few weeks later, and many of the fruits will be packed full of natural sugar and taste delicious.

Cut privet hedge

Thin out excess growth to prevent it swamping the pond.

Take cuttings June - July

Thin out excess growth regularly in the summer to prevent it swamping the pond.

Deadhead regularly to prolong flowering.

Give it a trim after the first flush of flowers to encourage further blooming.

Summer pruning is not essential, but if possible prune sideshoots back to five leaves in June. This will allow the sun to reach into the centre of the bush and help ripen the fruit.

Single-stemmed cordons can be trained on canes or against a wall where they can reach 1.8m (6ft) tall. In summer, prune sideshoots back to five leaves to encourage fruiting spurs to develop.

Immediately after flowering cut back shoots which bear faded blooms.

Softwood basal cuttings, 10 - 12cm long, in a sandy soil in a cold frame in early summer

Cut foliage down in summer if it looks scruffy, to encourage a neat new batch to set off summer-flowering marginals.

Divide mature clumps and replant at once.

Plant out when all risk of frost has gone

Lightly prune back flowered shoots after first flush .... to encourage second display.

If you aren't growing your gooseberries in a fruit cage, cover bushes with netting during June and July to keep off birds. Ensure it is weighted down at the base to prevent blackbirds getting underneath.

Cut new wood ( old wood will not produce new shoots) to maintain the shape of the plant.

Cut out thin and unproductive branches.

Prune out damaged, dead or diseased wood.
To encourage big flowers and to keep the plant's size in check, prune out a third of the branches each year.

Cut back this year's new long shoots to just beyond the second or third bud from the base.

To grow as a biennial, sow seeds outdoors in July or August. Do not cover the seeds, since they require light to germinate. Germination time is 6 to 12 days at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The small plants will bloom late the next spring.

Summer pruning simply involves shortening the new growth to two or three leaves beyond the fruit clusters to expose the developing berries to the ripening effect of the sun.

Feed with a balanced fertiliser in spring and AGAIN AFTER FLOWERING to encourage further blooms.

Feed with a balanced fertiliser in spring and AGAIN AFTER FLOWERING to encourage further blooms.

Feed with a balanced fertiliser in spring and AGAIN AFTER FLOWERING to encourage further blooms.

Feed with a balanced fertiliser in spring and AGAIN AFTER FLOWERING to encourage further blooms.

Feed with a balanced fertiliser in spring and AGAIN AFTER FLOWERING to encourage further blooms.

After flowering remove old and over-crowded shoots.

Cuttings of half-ripe wood, July/August in a frame. Very easy.

To keep plants in shape, trim after flowering.

Time to divide plants: July to September

Cuttings of half-ripe wood, July/August in a frame. Either put the cuttings in individual pots or pot them up as soon as they start to root. Easy[K]. Keep them moist in a dry spring.

Cuttings of half-ripe side shoots, 5 - 8 cm long with a heel, July/August in a frame. Roots within 2 weeks. High percentage. The heeled cuttings can also be placed direct into the open garden in early July and should be well-rooted by the winter.

Cuttings of half-ripe wood with a heel, July/August in a frame

Cuttings of half-ripe wood, 8 - 10 cm with a heel, July/August in a frame

Once apple trees are established it's best to summer prune the spur-fruiting varieties. This will encourage the development of short flowering shoots or 'spurs' that go on to bear clusters of fruit. Summer pruning is ideal for keeping the trees in shape and involves pruning the soft, current season's growth before it has chance to become woody.

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Do it: late-June - mid-August
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Takes just: 50 minutes for medium-sized tree

How to do it

1.Cutting back main shoot by half
Cut back the leading shoots of each branch by half their length to encourage the production of side shoots. Only prune the current season's growth in this way, cutting to just above a leaf.
2.Cutting back side growth
Cut back all remaining side shoots to two or three leaves from the base of the current season's leafy growth, cutting just above the bud.

Adam's Tips
"The soft stems and leaves that are cut off apple trees during summer pruning are perfect to add to the compost heap where they'll rot down quickly."
"Always prune to an outward-facing bud so that the centre of the bush or tree is kept open. This helps reduce problems with pests and diseases."

In mid-summer rejuvenate plants that are beginning to look jaded, by removing old flowered stems and leaves.

Cut to within an inch of old growth after flowering to keep them from getting horribly straggly

Cut out damaged and unwanted shoots.

Cut back the faded flower heads and foliage in August and the plant will often produce a second flush of flowers.

Cut out damaged and unwanted shoots.

Prune in early winter, but will ALSO TOLERATE SUMMER PRUNING IF NEEDED. Pay particular attention to stems that are encroaching on windows, guttering or roofs.

divide plants: September to April

Lift & divide overgrown clumps

To rejuvenate and minimise congestion lift and divide clumps in late-autumn or early spring every two years.

Cuttings of mature wood in winter. Very easy, just plant the cuttings direct into their final positions, about 95% usually take. Keep them moist in a dry spring.

Cut back hard every 2 or 3 years (done '08)

Lift and divide large clumps every three or four years, discarding old, woody rhizomes

Treasured specimens should be divided every third year, to sustain youthful vigour.