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beesnan

By Beesnan

Somerset, United Kingdom Gb

I planted 13 maiden fruit trees last February, it does not seem to have stopped raining since. They all, apart from the apricot, look healthy. What should I be doing for them this year?




Answers

 

What kind of fruit, Beesnan? Apricots are difficult trees to keep alive. We live a bit further south than you, and have lost all three we have planted so far. It might still be worthwhile putting grease bands on the main stem of apple, pear, quince or cherry trees in case of winter moth, and make sure that each tree is well staked against winter winds. I was always told not to put a thick mulch round the base, as it can harbour things like voles, which will chew at the bark, and it is too early to put on any kind of feed, but do make sure that the area round each one is kept free of weeds. After this year's rotten wet weather, if they look healthy, you are doing well. Come April, a scattering of fertiliser (not too much) won't harm them, but there is a school of thought that says they don't actually need it. If they are only coming up to two years old, I don't think you'll need to think about pruning for a while. Who knows, you may get fruit this summer!

7 Jan, 2013

 

Thank you for your very detailed reply Gattina. In answer to your question, we have 10 assorted apples, 1 cherry, 1 Greengage and the apricot, who's central stem had died back by April of last year, I cut this back and the rest of the tree (2 twigs !) seems fine. I seem to be following your other advice, apart from staking as I was advised to put in minimal, untied support to encourage strong root growth. The trees are planted on good, loamy soil which has laid fallow for several years, so what kind of fertilizer should I use? Thanks again

7 Jan, 2013

 

Unfortunately, what we use here is just called "Orto/fruttetto" (which means vegetable garden and orchard), and I think it is a 11-16-22 mix, but I shall pull my wellies on tomorrow and go and check the bag and let you know. We really don't use much of it at all. I think supports DO need to be tied in, but only loosely, so that there is a restricted amount of stem movement, and it's that which strengthens the roots. Maiden trees aren't going to offer much resistance anyway, I would have thought, so you should be fine. We live in a big cherry growing area, so those do well without really trying, we have imported 15 English apple trees, which in spite of the dreadful extremes of weather seem to be thriving (fingers crossed) We have pear trees (Italian cultivars), an English quince, hazelnuts (more decorative than for the fruit) and loads of plums (type unknown - they were established when we got here) walnuts and the fated apricots, which started well but gradually died after 2-3 years. I nearly forgot - we have five big fig trees, too, which need absolutely no care whatsoever, and several elderberries which are a bit of a nuisance. Stick with your apples! What kind of apple trees, by the way? We tried to bring over and establish unusual and rare types, but I couldn't exist without Coxes and Bramleys!

7 Jan, 2013

 

I'm so sorry, Beesnan, I got the numbers the wrong way round on the orchard fertiliser. It's 11-22-16 (11), and the active ingredients are:-
11% nitrogen of which 6% is Ammonium nitrate, (I'm translating here, so it may not be completely accurate)
22% phosphorus anhydride (P2O3)
16% potassium oxide (K2O)
11% Sulphur anhydride (SO3)

We were told by the nursery that supplied our apple trees that a neutral or slightly acidic loam is best, at least 2' deep. Organic matter dug in lightly round reach tree is a good idea, but heavy or regular feeding is unnecessary, and in fact the trees will grow perfectly well without. The weeding is a must, certainly until the trees are very well established with a deep and extensive root system.

9 Jan, 2013

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