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hank

By Hank

Cheshire, United Kingdom Gb

As I've said before, I've an empty strip of garden just inside my front boundary wall where I recently dug up some old 6 ft tall bushes which have been there forever.
The strip is 3-4 ft wide by 25 ft long and the soil is pretty dreadful. I am told growing potatoes improves bad ground.
I realise it's unusual but can I set a row of potatoes there just for this year ? My spuds are already chitting nicely and I already have plans for my 3 - 10 ft x4 ft raised beds.
( I do't suppose it's wide enough for 2 rows ? )



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Answers

 

The only reason potatoes are mentioned as good for growing to clear soil, is because of the work the grower has to do to get them to grow. In themselves they do nothing. Dahlias are just as good for it as well, same reason.
Whatever you decide, you will have to improve the soil with oodles of organic material before you plant anything.

25 Feb, 2015

 

Gosh, what a difference from previous pics, well done for clearing that lot.
Owdboggy's right, you just need to add plenty of humus rich material, so your own garden compost or composted animal manures from the garden centre, that type of thing. Probably about 5 of the standard sized bags from the garden centre and you can either turn it into the soil after spreading, or let it sit on top if you're not planting till later on.

25 Feb, 2015

 

Dammit, I've so much work to do just now I thought I'd found a way to get out of it by just digging holes to set spuds instead of digging the lot.
C'est la vie !

25 Feb, 2015

 

Would a spring-sown green manure, such as fenugreek or buckwheat, help? An easy solution to what to grow for this season (while you're busy) that will help to improve the soil in the longer term.
Or try an Internet for something like 'plants for poor soil' - I'd be surprised if you didn't find something that appealed. Some of the eryngiums prefer poor soil (and bees love them).

25 Feb, 2015

 

A green manure might help, but it still needs to be dug in. As an alternate, or in addition, lay 5-10 cm of compost on the soil, and let the rain and worms work away--it's slow, but it results in a better soil profile. Lime, bone meal, or gypsum can also help, depending on the pH and clay content of the soil.

25 Feb, 2015

 

Is there a stable locally ? Some of them are so anxious to get rid of their by- product they are bagging it up and putting outside the gate.

26 Feb, 2015

 

That's okay, Diane, but only if its already composted, which it often isn't direct from stables - and if it isn't that means stacking it somewhere for a year or so with enough straw before using it.

26 Feb, 2015

 

Thanks, I have some horse manure but it's still a bit too fresh.could try some erigniums ( spelling ? ) but will have to look them up (,e.g. - whether seeds or plants etc.). Not a clue as usual !

26 Feb, 2015

 

I have some horse manure but too fresh just now. I must look up erigniums ( spelling ? ) and green manure.

26 Feb, 2015

 

What are your long-term plans for the border, Hank? As you're busy this year (apart from all the effort you've already put in to clear the hedge) I'm guessing that you're really just looking for a short-term fix to keep the weeds down, so lots of annuals might be the answer.
You could go for a wildflower mix or lots of ground cover - sedums, candytuft, phlox etc etc - just pick half a dozen packets of seed that you like the look of and see what comes up. May be worth while blacking out the soil for a couple of months to reduce the annual weeds - it won't look pretty but will save you digging now while you're busy.
This will give a bit of breathing space until you have more time on your hands and will also give you time to decide what you want for the border.

This article might be of interest: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/gardening/gardenprojects/3309703/Anatomy-of-a-border.html

26 Feb, 2015

 

Ok U, sounds good. Do I simply buy the seed, rake the surface and scatter ? Can it really that easy ?. If so my only question is how soon can I do it ? No it's not, you've mentioned 3 - suggest 3 more and I'm on it. And I look forward to sending a photo of the result.

26 Feb, 2015

 

The reason people plant potatoes in a new garden is to break up heavy soil and keep down weeds. Adding growmore at planting time will feed the potatoes. You can grow two rows in the width you have. If you plant early potatoes you will be able to harvest them and replant with your chosen planting scheme. If you choose a variety like Jersey Royal (it is named International Kidney if grown outside Jersey) you can harvest them as new potatoes (1st earlies) or leave them to grow on until you need them even as late as other Main crop potatoes. The only maintenance you will have is earthing up to keep the emerging shoots from being frost damaged and ensuring they do not suffer from a lack of water. I have never done it but have seen experiments on gardening programmes where good results were obtained from placing your seed potatoes on the soil surface and covering over with black plastic. As the shoots grow and push up the plastic, holes are cut to allow the foliage to escape. You just roll back the plastic to harvest the crop.

27 Feb, 2015

 

Scots gran's is the best advice. I know someone who
breaks up large cardboard boxes, lays the cardboard on the surface, covers with leaves/ compost/ manure. The worms feel lovely and warm in this bed, and work hard to make your soil easily workable. When the cardboard dissolves in the weather conditions, dig it in with the other material.

27 Feb, 2015

 

Just remembered Hank, the germination/growth temperature of soil in the spring is 39 deg.F.

The wall absorbs heat, should keep your soil warm at night.

28 Feb, 2015

 

Thanks D, every little helps.

3 Mar, 2015

How do I say thanks?

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