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IBudding and grafting


By Desi

United States Us

I would like some information on the best way to do budding on standard roses



It is surprising that in a simple operation like budding there should be so many variations in the methods adopted by different budders. It is true that the differences are slight, but each budder maintains that his is the right method and all others are wrong.

The operation of rose budding consists in lifting the bark where there is no bud, and placing a bud or eye cut from the bush which we wish to increase. For budding to be successful, the sap in the stock must be flowing freely, otherwise failure is certain. This bears out what I have mentioned earlier, that the stock should receive cultivation. The selection of the bud or eye has a certain importance, but not nearly as much as that of the stock. For instance one can use buds which are cut from quite soft growth, although the majority of budders prefer those from wood that has just borne a bloom. The fact is, that success depends on the state of the stock and the neatness and speed of the operation. In actual budding the cutting of the stock and lifting of the bark should not present any difficulties. It is the cutting out of the bud and removal of the sliver of wood in the bud which most beginners find so difficult.

First of all, there is the selection of the growth which is to provide the necessary buds. In spite of what I have said about using soft growth, the beginner would be well advised to choose a shoot about a quarter of an inch in thickness, on which the bloom has just faded. If the shoot is cut with five sets of leaves it should provide three good buds; the ones nearest to the flower, being of doubtful value, should not be used. This is not always so as a variety like Peace will give good buds almost all the way. It may be that some of the buds will have started into growth, and in that case use those below which are dormant or nearly so. The very lowest buds of all on the shoot will have the appearance of being blind, but in fact they are quite good buds and are merely undeveloped.

The best way to learn the art of budding is to practice on a Rambler, or any other similar rose. I do not suggest that one should do this to attempt to change the Rambler into another variety, but merely to obtain practice before attempting to bud the stocks, for it is most likely that until one has mastered the way in which the bud is cut out, the T-cut made and the bud tied in, a few stocks will be spoilt. But by 'trying it out on the dog', so to speak,

7 Jun, 2008


Sorry run out of room on last page - A budding knife is best, since it has a bone handle with a thin end, to use in lifting the bark of the shoot. Otherwise, a penknife will serve, with the end of a toothbrush rubbed down to lift the bark. Skilled budders rarely use the handle of their knife, but to open the bark without its help requires long practice.

Needless to say, for such a delicate operation as budding, the knife must be very sharp, especially so for cutting out the bud from the shoot. Some raffia should be to hand, cut into lengths of about fifteen inches, and thin and soft. Do not use dry, stringy stuff as the tying in of the buds should be similar to bandaging a wound. The width of the raffia should be not more than a quarter of an inch; the reason for this will be explained later. It may be necessary to wet the raffia if it has been in store for some time; by dipping it in water and shaking it vigorously it will become quite flat again.

Having got everything in readiness, first make the T-cut in a strong growth of the type previously described. The cross-cut should be made first by drawing the knife across and using only sufficient pressure to cut through the rind or bark; the cut made should not be more than three-eighths of an inch in length. After this the longitudinal cut should be made, beginning about one inch away and drawing the knife right up to the cross-cut. When arriving at this point, by giving the blade a slight twist, it will have the effect of lifting the corners, and this operation can be completed by using the bone bark-lifter. Now the stock is ready to receive the bud.

Hope this is of help to you

7 Jun, 2008

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