Ken_bonsor's Outbox

well its up to you if you wish to cover or not but I have one that is about that hight - it is not easy but I do cover it - just to keep the bloody birds of it - I try and discourage the birds when and were I can - I would cut back all the growth from your neighbour's fence - some people dont say anything but they dont like it growing into their space - and they are within their right to cut them back as long as they return cuttings to you - so I would do it my-self at leaset that way you know you are doing it correct.....

It is much easier to change a hydrangea from pink to blue than it is from blue to pink. Changing a hydrangea from pink to blue entails adding aluminum to the soil. Changing from blue to pink means subtracting aluminum from the soil or taking it out of reach of the hydrangea.

White hydrangeas can NOT be changed to pink or blue by the grower. (The Almighty sometimes adds pink and red to blooms as they age).

If you live in a hot climate, it is unlikely you will ever see a "true red" hydrangea. No matter how convincing those pictures in the catalogs are or how much lime is added to the soil, one can only achieve a very deep or dark pink, but not a true red (at least here in the South. I'd love to hear from you if you have a different experience).

One can rarely change the intensity of a color (how strong or pale the color is). The intensity develops for a number of reasons: the heredity of a particular hydrangea variety, weather conditions (hot or cold, humid or dry), health of the plant, and possibly other natural factors. Fertilizing hydrangeas once or twice a year may result in a little more saturated color simply because the health of the plant may be improved. A few varieties of hydrangeas tend more toward the pink or the blue range of colors, but will not retain even this color if soil conditions are not right. -- and there we go hope it is of help --- Ken

You dont prune Carnations I grow and show long stem Carnations and you can grow all Carnations readily from cuttings made of the suckers that form around the base of the stem, the side shoots of the flowering stem, or the main shoots before they show flower-buds. The cuttings from the base make the best plants in most cases. These cuttings may be taken from a plant at any time through the autumn or winter, rooted in sand and potted up, to be held in pots until the planting out time in the spring, usually in April, or any time when the ground is ready to handle. Care should be taken to pinch out the tops of the young plants while growing in the pot, and later while in the ground, causing them to grow stocky and send out new growths along the stem. The young plants should be grown cool, a temperature of 45° suiting them well. Attention should be given to spraying the cuttings each day while in the house to keep down the red spider, which is very partial to the carnation.

You will need to prune your Cherry Tree during the summer months - June/July time, as this will cut down the risk of infection from the air borne fungal disease Silver Leaf. After pruning I would treat the pruned branches with a tree sealant such as Arbrex. With regard to pruning you will need to cut back some of the older wood to new shoots but still maintain the pyramid shape and, as the fruit appears on the previous seasons wood again some of the fruited wood will need to be cut back to new vigorous shoots. Cherries generally flower mid to late spring which makes the blossom vulnerable to late frost damage this may be what is causing your fruit to drop now you can protect your tree next year by covering in the evening with white fleece which is available from Garden Centres and DIY Stores.

It is hardy to zone 4 and is not frost tender. It is in flower from July to August, and the seeds ripen from August to September. The flowers are hermaphrodite (have both male and female organs)
The plant prefers light (sandy), medium (loamy) and heavy (clay) soils and requires well-drained soil. The plant prefers acid, neutral and basic (alkaline) soils. It can grow in semi-shade (light woodland) or no shade.

I would not grow in a container but --- The key is to spend some time on soil preparation before planting. The soil should be dug as far down as you can get incorporation lots of well rotted farm yard manure, its important that it should be well rotted because fresh manure will burn the vines roots. Another good source of organic matter is lead compost created from oak, ash and lime trees; beech leaves are best avoided, as they tend to be a little too acid for vines.

Most vines are supplied in pots. The same planting rules apply to vines as well as other pot grown plant, but with vines it is important that you -

Make sure the root ball is not to root bound or has been grown in a small pot for to long so that the roots have started to spiral in the base of the pot.
The planting depth should be just below the original compost surface in the pot so the root ball is just covered with soil.
Ideally the vine should be planted so that the roots are always kept cool and the head should be grown into the sun or towards a sunny spot on a wall or trellis etc. To keep the roots cool you can place large stones or rocks around the base to help shield the soil from direct sunlight.

In the first two years you should concentrate on forming a framework within the vine plant. This involves training the side branches and tying them to wires or trellis supports. The key points in this operation are not to tie the vine too firmly as the branches will expand over the next two years and the ties might constrain the branch to much and cause some damage. Secondary by training the side branched horizontally this will help encourage fruit production later. During the first two-year we recommend feeding with a liquid feed one a month through the summer to help create the frame work that will later support the grapes.

The vine will produce fruit in the first two years; this fruit is best left on the vine but thinned by removing 2/3rds of the grapes that have formed within each bunch.

Finally in the third year you can plan to produce some usable fruits. At the start of the year mulch with some well rotted farmyard manure around the base. You should no longer be feeding with liquid feed during the summer. The grapes will form again on the fruiting spurs and should be thinned in each bunch this time by one 1/3. They will develop over the summer then in late July you should remove some of the vines foliage around the grapes to allow the more sunlight to ripen the bunches.

At the end of the year you should tie in the new shoots cutting then back by 25% to encourage the formation of new fruiting spurs the following year. Finally tar washing with jeyes fluid in the winter has the advantage of killing all the pests that are over wintering in the stems and buds. This is carried out by mixing 1 part jeyes fluid to 30 parts water and spraying it on to the vine until it runs off soaking the stems and branches

It is important not to overwater Streptocarpus, wait until the compost feels dry to the touch. Overwatering, in particular regular overwatering, will cause harm to the root system. The first symptom of overwatering is exactly the same as underwatering i.e., the plant will wilt. So make sure the compost is actually dry in between watering. A month after potting up commence feeding with a high potash fertiliser. The most convenient way is to insert a Dibleys Streptocarpus fertiliser tablet each month. Please remember every lant is a separate individual and should be treated as such.

Always cut off dead flowers. Excessive or incorrect feed and poor light make the plants produce very large leaves and few flowers. It is quite natural as plants age for the old leaves to die back, and the ends should be trimmed off, especially in winter. In winter, water less often, do not feed and keep the plants in a place free from frost. In March or April gradually start watering more often and commence feeding. Plants should be potted into a slightly larger pot each spring. Do not over-pot you will get more flower by keeping on the pot bound side. Using half of three quarter depth pots is a good idea.

Given this treatment you will be rewarded by a continuous display of flowers from about May until well into winter. You will also find the flowers are good for cutting.

Streptocarpus are easily grown plants which are remarkably free from pests and diseases. Greenfly occasionally attack plants and can be spotted from their white discarded skins on the flower stalks and leaf bases. A spray with a proprietary insecticide either as an aerosol or mixed with water will soon cure the problem.

Also known as crazy hazel, curly hazel, and Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick (one of those rare cases where a comic in living memory has given his name to a native plant) but actually Corylus avellana 'Contorta', this lovely tree will ultimately grown to twenty feet, but it will take at least 25 years to do so because it is so slow-growing.

While it’s a pretty tree all year round, it comes into its own in winter when the curiously contorted stems stand out against the sky and then in early spring, February and March, when it develops very large and well coloured catkins before the spring foliage appears. In April the mid green leaves, which are also twisted, appear.

It’s an ideal plant for the middle of a sunny border or even for a large container. The twisted stems can easily be pruned to keep it in shape, which is good because they are very popular with flower-arrangers. The plant as a whole will provide a curious and unusual focal point for a zen type garden but equally looks interesting as a specimen tree in a lawn.

It grows well in either full sun or partial shade in a well-drained, fertile soil and it’s quite keen on chalk. It’s fully hardy in the UK and thrives on our native weather conditions. It doesn’t need much care, only pruning dead, diseased and damaged wood in March, or pruning for shape and an annual mulch of well-rotted organic matter around the base of the plant when the catkins have gone.

Very nice shot - Good composition

Bougainvillea can be easily propagated by taking cuttings from the plant. This time of year, use hardwood (bare stem) cuttings. In the spring, you can use softwood cuttings.Use a clean, sharp knife to remove the cutting from your existing plant.

Root a piece of cutting at least 3 or 4 inches in length in a pot filled with soil. Sandy soil is recommended. Add organic material such as compost or mulch to the potting soil. If you want, before planting, dip the end of the cutting in a rooting hormone product available at plant nurseries and home-and-garden centers.

You can keep the pot indoors, or outdoors, because of our mild winters at ther moment. But if it is going to freeze, bring the pot inside. Bougainvillea freezes easily.

Keep the soil moist, but not wet. The cutting should take root within three months.

In the spring, transplant to a larger pot if needed. - Hope this is of some help

Cut the dead flowers (if any) off during summer and prune back hard in autumn to keep its shape. These plants don't grow well in pots as their 2-3m high and 1-2m wide frame needs to be kept within a spacious garden bed.

Looks like to much heat - keep greenhouse cool dampen down with water on the floor to create humidity open windows and let air flow through – but not drafts - the give away sign is the curling of the leaves

also if you grow in containers chances you will not have a problem with the carrot fly - The female flies lay their eggs in the soil beside the host plants. These hatch about 7 days later depending on the temperature. The larvae move to the roots attacking the rootlets first. They develop through three growth stages over a 4 to 6 week period, then return to the soil to pupate for a further 2 to 4 weeks. Usually there are two generations per year, the first emerging in late April to early May and a second in late July. They overwinter as larvae in roots or as pupae in the soil, though a few adults may survive the winter.

But in containers you will not have a problem - because the carrot fly does not normally fly above about 18 - 20 inches above grownd level

Do not cut tops off - Sprouts are extremely easy to care for - just ensure they do not run short of water. Hand weeding (their roots are shallow and easily damaged) will also be necessary occasionally. Unless the soil is very poor, do not feed with any fertiliser, this will only result in leafy sprouts. A mulch of well-rotted compost will be appreciated. If the site is exposed to strong wind, staking may be required.

have you got them in full sun ????

Apples Fall, Have Cuts in Skin could be - Plum circulio beetle There is no trap or botanical insecticide that will control curculio. You can take advantage of the insect's habit of playing dead when surprised. Each morning for three weeks after petal fall, spread sheets under your fruit trees. Shake or jar the tree, and the beetles will fall onto the sheets where you can collect and dispose of them.

Pick up and destroy all fruit that falls to the ground. This step alone will diminish a curculio population substantially.

Some gardeners use the organophosphate insecticide phosmet (Imidan) to control curculio. Compared to other organophosphate insecticides it does not persist long in the environment. However, it is toxic to honeybees -- do not use it when pollinators are active.

it's very well possible that your seeds have been crossed by the bees. You may need to start from fresh seed. Those little buggers don't just make honey! (Just taking the micky) - but it could be a bad batch of seed ?

or morning glory plant - and is known as Flying saucer plant

The dry weather has certainly contributed. Hot, dry conditions such as those in August have favoured the two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae). These creatures feed on plant tissues causing extensive damage in high populations. They feed on a variety of plants both indoors and out. Cut off and remove dead leaves and clear up plant debris to reduce overwintering sites. Water the plants well, they may not produce any more leaf this year, but mites do not like damp conditions. The plants should recover and grow next year. Look out for early signs of this pest next spring and early summer, treating with insecticidal soap spray if found. Available from the Organic Gardening

Is it in full sun -??

in most species the berries are mildly poisonous ...

Shoot them - 12 bore works wonders - then add black pudding and onions and cook slowly

As long as they are planted in acid soil, camellias are not difficult to grow, and will even thrive in tricky semi-shaded areas, needing only minimal care once established. Most grow into large shrubs or small trees, but are extremely versatile and can be used as wall shrubs, hedges or superb container specimens.

Camellias need shelter if they are to thrive. An area in dappled shade under trees is ideal, but they will tolerate a more open position if shaded for part of the day. A west-facing aspect is perfect as strong early morning sun on frosted flower buds can cause them to thaw too quickly and drop off. In very exposed gardens, camellias are best fan-trained on a west-facing wall.

Generally, they prefer neutral or acid soil, although camellias will tolerate slightly limey soil, if it is well drained and fertile. Prepare the soil before planting by adding leaf compost and manure.

Container cultivation is the answer for gardeners with chalky soils, since a bag of ericaceous compost will satisfy their needs for acidic growing conditions.

Although they will flower without regular pruning, camellias can outgrow their allotted space unless kept in check. This is best done after flowering but before new growth begins.

Deadheading should be done as the petals fade in order to tidy up the plant and prevent energy being wasted on setting seed.

Camellias can suffer from scale insects, which look like tiny brown limpets clinging on to the stems and underside of the leaves. In addition to sucking the sap, they secrete honeydew on the leaf surface that becomes colonised by black sooty mould. Protect from aphids by washing them off or use a chemical spray.

Yellow leaves are a common problem with camellias and usually indicate nutrient deficiency. The solution is to apply a balanced liquid fertiliser in spring and autumn.

A type of virus sometimes causes yellow mottling or almost white leaves. This usually occurs on just a few branches and so can be cut out. Annually applied mulch of compost or manure around the root area is beneficial, especially in sandy soils. Avoid spent-mushroom compost as it contains lime.

Camellias, whether in the ground or container, need careful watering in the summer months. A dry spell in summer is the most common cause of winter bud drop.

Coffee rust, or coffee leaf rust, first destroyed Brazil's crop in 1970. Since the occurance of coffee rust in Brazil, it has spread to every coffee growing country in the world. Coffee rust and its symptoms were first observed in Sri Lanka in the 1860's. Many countries, including Sri Lanka and Ethiopia, replaced much of their arabica coffee with disease resistant robusta coffee. Coffee leaf rust is spread by wind and rain from spores from lesions on the underside of the plant (Mitchell, 84).

The rust diesease in coffee is prevented by spraying with copper-based fungicides at 3-5 kg/ha at 4-6 week intervals during the rainy season

The most common Eucalyptus grown in our gardens is Eucalyptus gunnii which can grow up to 6in (15.2cm) a year in good conditions. It's this very rapid rate of growth can take people unawares and the tree can eventually become quite unmanageable. This isn't a problem if you take action to remove the top of the tree when this is within reach, however, and it will to some extent 'bush out' near the top, though as stated above, sooner or later a leading shoot will take over and extend the upwards growth again.

There is another reason for pruning Eucalyptus gunnii, however, and that is that it has two types of foliage. Eventually the tree starts to bear adult foliage with long lance shaped greener leaves, but when it is young the leaves are rounder and a grey/blue colour which is quite attractive and often used in flower arrangements. By pruning when the plant is maybe 6in (15.2cm) high down to about 2in (5cm) or 3in (7.6cm) high you will retain the juvenile more attractive foliage but, of course, the plant will never become very large - it really depends which leaf type you prefer.

The amount you prune a plant depends on the type and when it flowers. Shrubs which flower in spring or early summer are flowering on last year's growth and benefit from removing some of the stems just after flowering. This encourages new growth which will flower better the following year.

Plants grown for their foliage or bark, such as Cornus, produce a better display from new growth. Both these can be cut hard back each spring. It may be possible to propagate cuttings from the pruned stems Hope this is of some help - all the best Ken

Although they are a brassica and theoretically susceptible to clubroot, in practice they develop too quickly to be bothered. Two pests do bother them, slugs nibbling the root and flea beetles.

The radish is, because of its speed, very much a fit in crop. Normally you would ignore the salad radishes in a rotation plan. They like a light soil with plenty of humus but they are a very tolerant crop. Where there is a small space sow a pinch of seed thinly - about 3cm apart is ideal and rake in or cover with a centimetre of soil. As long as there is sufficient water they should develop.

Once grown they very quickly go woody and then to seed so sow weekly in the salad season to ensure a continuous supply. Don't bother if they go over, the seed is cheap so compost and harvest the ones sown the week after. In hot summers they benefit from some shade and can be grown in the shadow of other crops. Good luck - Ken p/s - nothing is that easy in gardening !

You can plant almost anything you like after potatoes - just make sure it will be ready before the end of the season - good luck Ken

As with weeds, mushrooms and toad-stools can be a continuous intermittent presence in the landscape.
The appearance of mushrooms and toads-tools in the lawn is a good indication of soil fertility. These and other fungi serve an important role in Nature's re-cycling of organic carbon containing molecules.

You can suppress the growth of Fungi by watering affected areas with a solution of one ounce of IRON SULFATE in three gallons of water applied at the rate of about one gallon per square yard. Iron Sulfate and commercial Broad-spectrum FUNGICIDE chemicals can be used to control/prevent FUNGI and MUSHROOM outbreaks. Iron Sulfate and fungicides can be found at garden/Farm supply stores. Commercial FUNGICIDES are widely available, check hardware and department stores.

prune in early spring or late falland shape . Also cut back in July to keep it small.

Propagation: Take softwood cuttings in spring or hardwood cuttings in winter. This plant roots very easily.

As for the bug ??? Well known to be bug free – in this case I would tend to take a healthy cutting and get rid of the mother plant - Or wait until others on here may know more about it than me ! - Ken

Go with Owdboggy above as I totally agree and it is not blight - my dad told me this some 50 years ago - good luck Ken