Darryluk's Outbox

Up to you really.It might smother some stuff,but if you like it it will keep weeds down anyway!

Ivy will root and grow in the compost.So stick it all in a black bag first so it rots to a mulch,then chuck it on the compost heap.
You can burn stuff you cant compost and then put the ash on the heap or on the garden.

These can be cut back very hard at the end of the season,be brutal.Other than that feed with 4 to 6 ounces of Growmore round the base.

You only need male and female for pollination, with berries as the result.One on its own, either male or female should still produce tassles.

Should be ok if hole is dug out big enough with a little good organic matter in it.Spread the roots out and amke sure well drained.

Persimmon seeds need a long cold period to break dormancy and germinate. I would plant the seed in a pot and leave it outdoors for the winter but keep it watered. You can also duplicate this in the fridge. Place the pot inside a plastic baggie and seal it. Keep it in the fridge (not the freezer) for at least 90 days. Bring it out in the warmth and wait a month or two for germination. If it still doesn't germinate throw it back in the fridge for another 3 or 4 months then repeat the warm period process. Many deciduous trees and shrubs require multiple cold/warm periods so hope you are patient.

Beans should be good for germination up to 3 years, so nothing to lose by planting them.

http://www.ext.vt.edu/pubs/plantdiseasefs/450-609/450-609.html see if this helps!Difficult to see on your photo,but it may be a match?

Borage is as bad as mint for spreading and taking over the garden. Digging up all the roots would do the job,but not an easy solution if its taken over.You need to get those roots so something systemic like RoundUp is a good weedkiller,sprayed when the plants are growing well it would be taken down.Just need a lot of care about surrounding plants that you want to keep.

Found this exerpt that might help;

'.....recommend using SunPatiens only in areas with full sun in the afternoon or all day. If you have shade stick to standard impatiens - they're cheaper and more floriferous. Just like other impatiens, they do require quite a bit of watering, but I'll share a secret with you to make any impatiens flower more and stay shorter: Let them wilt between watering, and I mean let the tips hang down before you water. Since all impatiens are native to the equator they are used to only two seasons, hot/wet and hot/dry. If they start to dry out a little bit they kick into reproductive mode and will flower much heavier for you.

Another good thing about SunPatiens is if they do get too tall or big for you, give them a trim and they'll pop right back out'

Can prune early summer for flowering next spring,not in winter! Feed and water afterwards.

There are Hardy varieties and Non Hardy,so a name would be good.

http://www.thegardenhelper.com/Jerusalemcherry.htm should tell you what you need.

Only real way I can think of is to keep them growing in the coldest part of the garden.Not easy I know but if the climate warms the plant up too early it will bloom! They are in a pot?Is there a cool place you can put them next time? If they have to stay outdoors,try covering with some plant fleece to protect from any frosts this time.

http://www.soft32.com/download_103955.html try this, The Seed Programme. Its small,cheap if you want to keep it and great for keeping track of all your seed packets. XP, but I like it!

The leaves dont look quite right for Gloxinia, but I hope someone knows for sure and will let us know.

These are definitely hardy, way below freezing!I'd suggest maybe over watering, but after 40 years I reckon you know how to care for it. Maybe, if just moved to the spare bedroom, the need for water was drastically reduced (as it was cooler) and it has in fact been given too much? But hey, 40 years is a good run, good luck with the other one.

Bulbs can be left in original container for 2, 3 or more years before any need to repot.When flowers start to 'go off' move into light shade,water and fertilse to get the leaves growing strong.

Can take 6 weeks,or up to 4 months to flower! Should bloom first season.Soak bottom of bulb in warm water to spread roots out.Top 1/3rd of bulb above soil.Any good compost will do.Water well then leave till growing or soil bone dry. Will rot if watered too much. Assume you are growing indoors,they wont survive frost outdoors.

Looks like Aloe Vera to me.

Agapanthus always seems happiest when it is pot bound! Only needs to be repotted when its roots appear to be pushing the plant out of the pot.Best time to split is Spring, although the growing season is ok. Not during Winter though! Just split it into two or three or more depending on size.Just pull it or slice it apart. It will thrive.

'Old Spice' or 'Wiltshire Ripple' , amazng scent too.

Provado Ultimate Bug Killer is good stuff.The whitefly has a 3 week life cycle!So spraying is almost a weekly thing to keep them in check.Home made,you can try your own Horticultural Oil mix, vegetable oil mixed with ordinary soap.Prevention might be to cover plants with garden fleece to keep them off,but you have to bury the edges otherwise they will sneak under! Frost wont do much,but adult flies are killed off by heavy rain,so you can also blast plants with a hose on a regular basis.Careful how you dispose of infested plants or you will end up spreading the whitefly elsewhere. They are very resilient and probably here to stay,so keep trying and see what works best.

Let the seedheads dry on the plants, now is the time.It can help to pull off some of the back petals to help the drying process.Pull off the pods when they have finally closed, and keep somewhere (like a greenhouse bench) to dry further. In february break the pods onto a tray and gently blow on a small batch at a time to clear all the lighter rubbish from the heavier seeds. The seeds can then be hand sorted, keeping the ones that have a firmer feel to them.