A BIG country
Posted on 20 Dec, 2008 12 comments
A BIG country.3
Next morning Sunday 7th we drove all the way to Timber Creek in the Kimberleys. We were heading East and then South which gives you a false feeling, until long after Fitzroy Crossing, the road leads up to the North East again. We have been travelling on the Great Northern Highway since Port Headland. Here the temperatures soared to 42C, which does not invite you to get outof the car, but we still had to do so every now and then for petrol and stretching our legs. Some Roadhouses were fantastic with shady trees, just like an oasis in the desert, accommodation good, some had taverns, but then there were some which were terrible, hot, dusty and very expensive and then we just didn’t know how quickly to leave the area again. All in all the dogs were fantastic. Each place they were allowed outof the car they sniffed around, and of course smelled other dogs that had been there. My first priority was to get them into the shade, water in front of them and just being with them so they would not worry or fret or be scared. They were always happy again to hop in the car and continue the journey. A home away from home…..From Broome onwards the country side was just a huge Savannah ( it is called : the Savannah road ).
Very nice, small green trees, but my biggest surprise were the Boab trees. From here onwards to far into the NT Boabs were scattered along the country side, even close to the roads and these amazing trees have won my heart and I have taken several pictures of them. The scenery is just amazing. Very few creeks or rivers had actually some water in it, not more here and there than a waterhole. But the road can tell you of other times; you are driving continuesly through these “dips”, called floodways, so you can imagine that in the rainy season there are huge areas completely flooded. Well, the weather changed. Thick dark clouds appproached and yes, here and there we saw lightning. We seemed to stay on the Southside of this bad weather, but cought the edge of it and I as I was driving I had to concentrate on the wipers as thick drops fell, so luckily only Paul really saw this spectacle of thunder and lightning on the passengers side. ( Here we drive on the left side of the road ). I hate driving in thunderstorms! Anyway, as I said we missed most of it, and I was glad when we finally arrived in Halls Creek. A bit of a lost place, wide open spaces, mostly indigenous people walking around. We wanted more shades for the car windows, ever since we only bought two in Carnarvon, and wanted to try the local hardware store. But it was too late and they were closed. We stayed at a Best Western Motel, which had lovely flamboyant trees, of which I took pictures. The dogs slept in the car, and we were lucky again; it had rained and it had cooled off from 42 to 28 degrees in 10 minutes and as evening fell, it was quite bearable. We locked the dogs in the car with windows open whilst we had our dinner. A real kind of country and Western tavern, only the meal was not as good as the previous night in the Roadhouse.
Went to bed early so we could take off early. I’ve lost track of the days of the week, a holiday combined with an exploration and moving interstate, all too much to consult a diary!
I think it is Monday now and we are on our way from Halls Creek to the NT border!!!
Again Savannah land, Boab trees, rolling hills, endless roads, hot, short stops, cool drinks, sharing driving and the love for our country. It is just so fantastic, the space gets to you more than anything else. First big place is Kununurra, a green oasis in the desert. What a wonderful place that is and they even had cheap petrol at $ 1.11 per litre. On the way we even had to pay $ 1.37 a litre. Here we found a Kmart and we could finally get another 2 sets of shades. We bought our lunches and just a little further on we found a lovely big shady tree and opened the back of the car, sat on it and ate our delicious sandwiches. Sandwiches in Roadhouses are lovely, chicken and salad, the salad being with beetroot, lettuce, grated carrot, tomato and grated cheese. A meal in itself.
Dogs get their dog biscuits, yoghurt and milk.

Kununurra lies not far from the State border.When we reached the border we saw the sign ahead and made a stop. I took a picture of it, saying time is an hour and a half ahead, and one of Paul and the dogs. He had opened the back to show how Radar was lying in the back.
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Comments
Yes Wolf, the story continues, we are not in Darwin quite yet. Glad you enjoy them and thanks for your comment.
20 Dec, 2008
NOW I know what a 'Boab' is! Thanks for the continued 'story' M. The scale of your country is unimaginable to me!
20 Dec, 2008
Such extremes of climate are hard to imagine in our temperate climate. 40 degrees slays me! I do love the wide variety of Australian trees. Roll on chapter 4.
20 Dec, 2008
Thanks Spritzhenry and Wagger. It almost is the size of a continent I think. It took us 9 days driving to get halfway the country......We never travelled more than 600 kms a day, fatigue kills and we wanted to live on. Sharing the driving is also good. I have a CD stacker in the car, yet at that speed the engine makes too much noise, especially in a big 4WD like that, so we couldn't even listen to our music. Sometimes Paul fell asleep when I was driving and then you are alone with your thoughts, which can be dangerous, if you know what I mean....you could nod off. So every two hours or so we'd get out and stretch our legs. The trees are magnificent Wagger, some are so straggly and short and others majectic and tall, all adapted to their region and climate they grow in.
20 Dec, 2008
Hi Marguerite, I have just caught up with all of your Big Country blogs. They are great. Look forward to the next one. Thank you.
20 Dec, 2008
Another good edition to the tale, M
Now you are a true adventurer! I can only imagine what this trip was like just 50 years ago. Seems it is not so easy even today! It is good that you have dogs who travel well. Some dogs wouldn't be so calm.
20 Dec, 2008
Telling me that puts it more into perspective, M. What a HUGE country - not just big!
We are lucky that Henry also travels well. He lies down in the back of the car and dozes a bit. No hassle from him at all - thank goodness!
I can't imagine how you'd cope if your two were poor travellers!
20 Dec, 2008
Hi Spritzhenry. I guess most dogs love going wherever you go and most dogs love car rides. The old one called Radar was 18 then, would you believe. He was very good, but needed extra attention as partly deaf and very bad eyesight, he would wonder in the wrong direction if you'd let him. He died when we were living in Darwin and shortly after we got Cully so Pivot wouldn't fret. She too loved car rides, so yes, I guess we've been lucky with the dogs. We didn't know how they would travel that far though, but we had no option. I would never have put Radar in a plane, he would have died I think. As a rule dogs love to be close to their master, as long as they are with you they are happy.
21 Dec, 2008
Wohlibuli, I was thinking the same the other day. Not even so long ago, say 35 years ago friends of ours went by car from Perth to their family in Melbourne and had to cross the Nullarbor ( means no trees ), the desert in the south. A few hundred klms on unsealed roads.....I cannot begin to think of all the dust in and outside the car. They had no airconditioning either. Now that would have been in the true pioneer spirit, I think. But I guess some roads up North could well have been in the same condition. Than one hundred years ago people went by horse and cart, even with all the bales of hay stacked on the back and a whole regiment of horses to pull them. Amazing! Those were tough times, just like American pioneers.
21 Dec, 2008
It is amazing to me also! I have read pioneer accounts from here in the US and heard some from my own family, and still have trouble believing that people survived it, I guess some didn't. I am sure it is comparable in Oz. As I understand it the remote areas there are still very difficult. Tough folks there and here, for sure!
21 Dec, 2008
Yes Wohlibuli, these folks sure were tough. If I think how they cleared the land with these big half moonshaped saws, at each and a woodcutter....it must have been a day's job, and then they still had to build huts....There are still impassable remote areas. If you want to go right through the centre, you have to go through the deserts and there are only dirt roads. So even if it is the shortest route, it will take you much longer than staying on the bitumen highways, even if it means more kms. This is what I meant about main arteries. There is one road all around Australia, one sealed road and we drove on part of it. Right in the North there are not many ones leading to and from it....just dirt roads.
22 Dec, 2008
Blog post by Marguerite.
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Very good story and the pictures just help emphasis it. Is there a part 4?
20 Dec, 2008