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Tomatoes - 2!!


Well, I’ve reached the first stage! 3 little seedlings have popped their heads up only to realize who’s actually sown them and then they will all drop down dead!
But seriously – I now have 3 seedlings they are cherry tomatoes 2 of a yellow variety and 1 of the red, I hope more will push through over the next 10 days or so. This is usually the stage when my seeds tend to die after germination and first 2 leaves, the stems shrivell up and that’s it! What can i do to stop this from from happening? I still have them in a heated propagater with the vents half open to let a bit of circulation in. The soil is still wet so it isn’t a case of no water?

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hi Andrea, like you i have little luck with seeds in propergators, i think the main problems are overwatering, and artifical heat, can cause damp rot. which is what it sounds like to me. i find i get far more success from seeds if i sow later in my greenhouse or porch, -both are unheated but get enough light to warm them right up once april hits, and they always seem to catch up anyway. from what i have read, you should only water once when you sow the seeds, and you should'nt need to water them again until they are all fully up, they don't want to be wet - just moist. but this is the stage i usually loose them, due to under or over watering, i think it is a very fine line, - but i've only had this problem when i have sown in a propergator! when i've done it later in the greenhouse i have had very little problems at all. good luck let us know how you get on

5 Feb, 2008


I think I'll bring the propagaters inside and turn them off the heat of the house should keep them alive

5 Feb, 2008


This is how I grow my tomoatoes from seed

Sow in mid March in a seed tray covered with clingfilm and put in the airing cupboard. Check every day and as soon as the first seedling starts to emerge, remove the clingfilm and put the seedtray on the kitchen windowsill (which faces south). When the first true leaves appear, pot into 3" pots and grow on. When they are growing healthily, move into larger pots and stake where necessary. By mid April, move into the greenhouse (closing it overnight if cold weather threatens). Pot on again and start hardening off in May and plant out later in the month when I know there will be a good mild spell for a week or so

This method gives me a 75% success rate on average (that is, 9 plants from 12 seeds)

As for watering, I make sure the top of the compost is moist while they are in the seed tray. Once in pots, you get used to the feel of the pot by lifiting it and judging whether it is dry/light in weight and watering if necessary.

5 Feb, 2008


WOO HOO !!! Great to hear Andrea. How exciting..My cherry tomato just finished and the heat destroyed it , so I have planted a new one :-)

I also have a ' Yellowpear' tomatoe, looking forward to fruit on this one.

There are only 2 varieties I grow and thats, Cherry Tomatoes and Roma's....Good luck.

We love eating them fresh from the garden.

6 Feb, 2008


Right, the propagaters have been moved inside. I have left the heat on but I have placed them in a window with the lids off so the room temperature should be warm enough to keep the seedlings happy. I have more popping through so at the moment I am a happy girl!!
Oh Michelle - you are lucky to have the all year climate to grow tomatoes whenever you like only the heat being the thing that finishes them off. Where abouts in Australia are you?
I watched a program on TV last week that made Australia look fantastic, very diverse climates depending whether you are N, S, E or W or centralish around Alice Springs. Lovely gardens everywhere. I liked the look of New Zealand with the jungle effect planting, so much so my husband started looking at property and jobs!!!!

6 Feb, 2008

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